Friday, 18 April 2014

Coffee with me @ Madikeri (Coorg)




The virtual journey began over a deep discussion with my husband on a call. We shared views about Wayanad, Allepey, Munnar and all that was beautiful and breathtaking. My husband and I are travel enthusiasts and it doesn’t matter to us whether we romance with mountains, high seas or just the plains. This time it was our honeymoon so all our energy was exhausted by resolving the marriage rituals existing in the two states i.e. we both were travelling to and fro between these two Trans cultural boundaries. Our surreal charm for Greece, Prague, French Riviera and Peru collided with the paucity of time. We therefore decided to choose a destination that was close to Bangalore and where we could relax for a while before we started the ‘dal and bhaat’ life.
We chose the town of Madikeri that is popular for the destination called “Coorg” known as Mercara in their language. The misty Coorg reminded me of the hindi adaptation of Sussana’s Seven Husbands by Ruskin Bond and the captivating cinematic shots taken in the valley. Now, Mercara was almost five to five and half hours journey from Bangalore (it could be six if the traffic is high). The stoppage was at Mysore Adigas for breakfast. One must take travel necessities like tablet or ipad, medicines, cushions, wraps, ice-box, fans, sunglasses, sun-block, hand towels and munching goodies to have a comfortable journey. The road from Bangalore to Coorg has many wine shops though drunken driving is prohibited in the city of Bangalore yet alcohol is sold like mineral water.
We began our journey early in the morning to avoid traffic inside the city of Bangalore and its outskirts. Coorg is known more for its monsoon as it’s a rainforest hills of the Western Ghats bordering most of the town of Madikeri. The highway consists of beautiful palm trees and the scarce vegetation as grown in the rough red soil, geographically known to be a dry soil. March is not the weather for Coorg and the hill station is less visited by tourists. Orange County, Taj Madikeri , Tamara and Mahindra are the chief hotels that provide a very luxurious stay.
Coorg is famous for its coffee plantations and home stays exist in abundance inside these plantations. Sweet spring is the coffee blossom weather and the hills are filled with the smell of a lovely lingering  scent of the flowers. My suggestion to you is to stay for two days in the homestay and visit the famous places in the town of Coorg. The places are Buddhist Monastery (must watch), Abbey Falls ( it is haunted by tourists and has been witnessing littering by the them), Talacauvery (the origin of the Kaveri river), Omkareshwara Temple, Rajas Seat (where the King sat and saw the whole of Coorg at the highest point), Mercara Fortress where the British ruled Coorg for many years in the past, also consists of the mementos of the renowned Field Marshal - Kodandera "Kipper" Madappa Cariappa . Dubbare – the elephant training camp. Cauvery Nishadharma is a manmade island that didn’t seem interesting to us by its not so enticing photographs available at the reception of the hotel as well the internet. However Irupu Falls was beautiful and a must visit. Rajas Seat and Nishani Hills are considered to be the most beautiful sunrise and sunset point. We indulged in a wacky endeavor of taking a picture together in the famous Coorg attire and the picture seemed quite memorable to us as it shall remind us always of a distant memory.
Coorg is chilly in the night in March and it is not very easy to take a dip in the swimming pool of Mahindra or Orange County unless it’s a temperature control pool of Taj where we stayed. The Taj property is famous for its 180 acre of land and is overseeing the valley. There is the famous Nishani  Hyke where you can get to see Coorg  from the highest hill and the trek takes place early in the morning by the Taj trainers at the hotel.
The historical conservatory at Taj is worth remembering as it explains you the culture, art and history of Coorg.  The people of Coorg are knowingly or unknowingly famous for their greek origin from Alexander’s invasion of India and his huge army of Greek men. The people of Coorg eat vegetarian as well as non-vegetarian and the kings were famous for indulging in the game of hunting boars. It can be seemingly understood that the the people of Coorg are from the Kshatriya (warrior) clan and are quite united as a community.The quintessential Pandi Curry (pork curry) and Kodimbattu (steamed rice balls), oil lamp, brass dagger, brass urlis (bowls to fill water, oil lamps and flower to welcome guests and also for festival or religious purposes in South of India), brass steamer container are found in every nook and corner of the town hall.
One must make a visit to the chic eatery called Raintree (and choose any coffee drink from the world map) that serves you fresh coffee from the  brewery station of the restraint in the town hall. Another interesting joint is Taste of Coorg where the authentic Coorg cuisine is served. The Coorg cottages are beautiful as each house has thatched roofs due to the heavy amount of rains in the town and the doorway has an interesting pool that collects water drained out fresh from the roof in the rainy season. Bamboo trees exist in plenty and objects like masks are carved out from the same in abundance by the local craftsmen. The art of choosing coffee and knowing its flavor can be tested by visiting many recognized coffee estate shops like Golden Coffee Estate in the town hall. Always choose coffee beans and get it grounded in front of you at the shop. There are two kinds of famous coffees. One is Plantation Arabica and the other is Plantation Robusta. Plantation Arabica is the gentle coffee and is suitable mostly for a relaxed evening and after spa therapy just like sipping of green, chamomile or jasmine tea. Plantation Robusta is a strong aromatic coffee and is savored by people who have a taste for cappuchino. Coorg grows its extremely good masalas like cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, staranise, bay leaves, pepper, honey, coconut oil, toffees, chocolates and all are available at the recognized shops. One must choose the aforesaid from the recognized shops of the State Government. Please be careful in buying the same. The local fruit wines are strong and have a similar pungent taste like Feny from Goa. The famous fruit vinegar and chillies used in pandi curry are also available in shops.
A medium distance from Coorg is the amazing and one of the best forests of India boasting of flaura and fauna alongside the peaceful Kabini river, a tributary of Kaveri is “Nagarhole National Park” also known as the Rajiv Gandhi National Park. Orange County is a must visit and oversees the tributary. Bio-diveristy includes large number of flaura and fauna like tigers and wild elephants and many other species. We decided to make a separate visit to the forest in one of the weekend getaways. It is also worthwhile visiting Bandipur National Park. The details of these two parks shall be covered soon by me for you all.
The people of Coorg are extremely united and it is commendable that they care for conservation of the plants and trees on the hills. Plastic is banned in Coorg and the citizens follow the strict laws. They worship the river Kaveri and she is their goddess for all kinds of festivities. In short, the town is peaceful and a must visit during the Monsoon season. Taj Madikeri , Orange County  and Tamara are the best in the lot. Tamara is rated as the best romantic resort in the world map.

Taj grows its coffee and has a lovely farmland. All food is cooked out of the farm fresh vegetation and plenty of herbs like rosemary, sage, oregano and fruits like strawberry are available. A tour of the magnificient property is undertaken in a buggy ride by the staff. The Jiva spa, temperature controlled pool (one of its kind in India after Oberoi- Shimla), conservatory, hykes and vivid occupying activities enthrall the tourists. The Buddha Garden is amidst the giant statue of the bust of Buddha, a little stream, wooden bridged, trees, shrubs and the forest passage is lit with oil lamps to place romantic dinner for couples in the night. Before we get endorsed anymore for praising the property my suggestions to you is to visit the lovely Coorg when the Indian rain god Indra drenches it.  A five day relaxed stay is enough to finish all the destinations in Coorg. Keep reading !  J